On Maria Island, where there are no private cars, no pubs and no blinking neon signs, visitors wile away their days by exploring the ruins of failed attempts at colonisation, lazing on secluded beaches, scrambling along the rocks to see garish yet completely natural painted cliffs, or sitting patiently next to their long - lensed cameras waiting to capture a portrait of a Forester kangaroo or Cape Barren goose.

In 1971 Maria Island (pronounced ma-RYE-ah) was declared a Wildlife Sanctuary, before it became a National Park.

The hamlet of Darlington, where most people begin their wanderings, offers precious little evidence of the current century. Today its buildings stand as a ghostly reminder of the island's early status as a penal colony for "lesser" offenders, those whose crimes did not merit the hideous punishments of Port Arthur, or worse Sarah Island.

Visit the Commissariat Store near the jetty for an island orientation and a chat with the ranger. If you like, you can stay overnight in the very building where many convicts served out their sentences.

The gaol house today is the island's only public accommodation building. Remember to bring all your own food, water and bedding. There are no shops of any kind on Maria Island, although there is a public phone at Darlington.

Fireplaces are located only in Darlington, and other areas require you to provide your own stove. There is a camping area at Frenchs Farm with tank water, one at Encampment Cove with a small tank only and one at Robeys Farm with limited water. There is no water at the camp at Haunted Bay.

When you stroll out and about, it's quickly apparent why Maria Island deserves the National Park status.

Not far from Darlington, the island offers a myriad of pleasures, especially the Painted Cliffs, a colourful display of sandstone eroded by wind and water to reveal its multi striped levels. Serene sheltered beaches, which you are likely to have to yourself, abound nearby.

On the other side of the island, only a 20 minute walk away, don't miss the fossil cliffs, a world of ancient seashells embedded millions of years ago in the rock. For the fit, a climb to the top of Bishop and Clerk or even Mt Maria rewards the hiker with majestic views of the east coast and the Tasman Sea.

If you're in an especially adventurous frame of mind, bring a pack filled with food and water and make the two day trek past the narrow isthmus to the rarely visited southern end of Maria Island with its untouched forests and secluded beaches.

With your own equipment you can enjoy a dive off the island which will introduce you to the marine elements of the area. Serene sheltered beaches, which you are likely to be deserted, abound. They are suitable for a refreshing swim and Riedle Bay is sometimes suitable for surfing.

The island is also a designated marine reserve area. Whilst here you will encounter great examples of Tasmania's east coast habitats. Divers will be treated to amazing underwater forests in Fossil Bay, seagrass beds in Mercury Passage and sandstone reefs at Howells Point.

Maria Island is Tasmania's only national park where you can find all eleven of the state's endemic birds. As well as these there are a further 130 species to look out for. The reason for such an amazing diversity is the range of habitats found on the island, for despite its size you will come across ocean, moist gullies, shore, cleared grazing and swamp habitats.

In the summer months rangers organise walks and talks for visitors which will provide you with interesting information on the wonderful nature that surrounds you.

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