The first known Europeans to sight the King George Sound and the future settlement of Albany were Dutch trading vessels en route to the Dutch West Indies in the early seventeenth century. In 1628 a map was made by the Dutch East India Company which incorporated the south coast of the continent as far as the east side of the Great Bight. The first recorded sighting of Albany and the Sound occurred in 1627 when Peter Nuyts surveyed the area. George Vancouver and his expedition were the first Britons to sight the area in 1791 and many of the landmarks were named by him. Matthew Flinders was another noted explorer to survey the area.

The next visits were made by Phillip Parker King in 1818 and French explorer Captain Dumont D'Urville in 1826. In March of that year Sir Ralph Darling was instructed to establish settlements at Western Port (Victoria) and Shark Bay on the west coast. Shark Bay was later to be moved to King George Sound. Major Edmund Lockyer arrived on Christmas Day 1826 with a consignment of troops and convicts. Lockyer provisionally named the settlement Frederick's Town in honour of His Royal Highness, the Duke of York and Albany. It was from his titles that many of the landmarks in the area were named.

The penal settlement at the Sound operated as such from 1826 to 1831 when the foundation of the Swan River colony prompted the Government to transfer the troops and convicts to said colony. During these 5 years the settlement was run by 4 officers who presided over the initial 27 convicts. These convicts were quite highly skilled and were not of the Class 6 or 7 variety(that is those sentenced to hard labour for violent crimes). Escape was not an option as the surrounding bush was harsh and inhospitable. In February 1831 the "Isabella" set sail for the Swan River colony with the remaining convicts who were fearful of a return to the much harsher conditions of the penal settlements in New South Wales.

In March the Sound was proclaimed as part of the Swan River colony - all there was were several run down buildings and one ex convict who had requested to stay behind; hardly a dynamic community by any means. The 1830s and 40s were to be difficult times for the new pioneers. In 1831 the Government ceased to grant land and instead put the land up for sale at an initial price of 5 shillings later to be increased to 1 pound in 1842. One settler remarked:

"There is thus every obstacle thrown in the way of the first settler, obstacles which would have been of little importance had the soil and climate near the coast been good"

These land regulations would provide the major obstacle to successful settlement during these two decades.

The first few years of the settlement were free of any major developments. The lack of cheap convict labour which New South Wales and Tasmania had in their infancy meant that expensive free labour would have to be utilised. The population of Frederick's Town was between 40 and 60 people, mainly soldiers, sealers and whalers. Frederick's Town never gained acceptance as the town's name and in January 1832 the alternative name of Albany was used in an official capacity. It would take 40 years for it to take over from the more popular King George Sound.

Lieutenant Carew was the first administrator for the town until it was decided to establish the post of a Government Resident, a civil not military office. Dr Alexander Collie was the first appointed to this post and he arrived to the settlement in March 1831. That same year saw the arrival of surveyor JAS. Roe who continued the work of planning the town and surrounding region. From 1833 onwards Albany experienced an influx of settlers who had capital to invest in pastoral and agricultural activity in the area. The population rose from 40 to about 170 and the number of residences in the town increased from 3 to 45. This interest was stimulated by the expansion of the Australian wool industry, the large amounts of British capital invested in the colonies and the spread of flattering accounts of Albany's potential. More settlers arrived during 1835-36.

The King George Sound was becoming a trading port. It's location was ideal for trade vessels ploughing between the eastern colonies and the countries of India, Singapore and Mauritius. By 1836 three ship owners had established themselves at Albany. Meantime attempts at agriculture were unsuccessful as the soil was generally sterile after the first crop had been harvested. Pastoralism seemed to have a greater potential with the most successful pioneer being Sir Richard Spenser whose Strawberry Hill station bred cattle and sheep. Plans to found a Joint Stock and Vine Agricultural Company never eventuated. Sealing and Whaling continued apace with Albany being a chief port for the ships. A jetty was commenced in 1837 but was not completed fully.

By the beginning of the 1840s Albany had emerged as a port town involved with trading vessels, and whaling ships passing by the area. Captain George Grey succeeded Spencer as Government Resident. A year later John Randall Phillips took over from Grey. During this time agricultural activity was slow and whaling remained the chief employer in the town. Another industry developed from the demand for the aromatic oil and wood of the Sandalwood tree. This industry served as employment during the whaling off season as did kangaroo hunting. Albany was the largest port in Western Australia with more ships and larger tonnage than Fremantle.

In the 1840s the town finally got a school in lieu of the previous failed attempts to secure an educational facility in the preceding decade. It opened in November 1840, was run officially by Stephen Knight and the first teacher was his wife Lucinda. The school was a success blossoming from it's initial role of 13 students to 38 pupils by 1849. In 1849 it was debated whether or not to extend the old jetty or build a completely new structure. Eventually no action was taken and the town had to make do with the old structure. The end of the decade saw Albany as a small isolated community with no main economic mainstay to support development as yet.

By 1850 there were about fifty residences strewn along the beach and at the foothills of the mountains. The town's population was numbered at 230-40, with a small number of children under 12 years and the sex ratio favouring males. 1850 also saw the selection of Albany as the mail port for Western Australia and as a coaling depot on the trade route between Europe and Australia.The establishment of the Peninsular and Orient Company (P&O) and the Australian Company in Albany was to mark the beginning of Albany's emergence as a major port town. The first vessels arrived in July 1852 much to the delight of the locals who felt as though Albany was finally going to be put on the world map.

However welcome these honours were, the town was not ready for them. The port was not ready for large ocean going ships, there was a small jetty and a part time customs officer. There was no Harbour Master, wharves, lights or buoys characteristics of a major port. The Government kept the service viable in the secret hope that Fremantle would be chosen as an alternative to Albany - a fact that caused much hostility between the government and the Albany townsfolk. The road system was improved using the first of the convict "ticket of leavers" who were sent to the town in 1851. The P&O Company was to prove most profitable until the outbreak of the Crimean War in 1853 when the mail boats were halted. This plunged Albany back into the "Depression" of the 1840s. Four long years passed before the resumption of the mail service. Two lighthouses were established in this year also. An Aboriginal School had been established in 1852.

The jealousy between Perth and Albany culminated in several attempts to lure the prestigious mail service from Albany to the port at Fremantle One of the most blatant attempts came during 1875 when an expert arrived from Victoria to survey the port at Fremantle. Unfortunately he decided that the port was unsuitable and the government would be best advised to develop a good rail link to Albany. The failure to secure a telegraph line to the Sound in 1872 marked the beginning of a decline for Albany.

In the late 1870s the P&O Company, undercut by the Government contracts moved to Victoria and closed their operations at Albany - a major blow for the port. The mail steamers continued to call but the effects of the closures were felt by all in the town. Wool , mutton, whaling and sandalwood products formed the mainstay of the town during the early 1880s. 1880 saw the first work begin on the construction of a railway but it was to take until the end of 1888 before construction proper began. The new deep water jetty and the Town Hall were also completed in that same year.

The 1890s saw an influx of holiday makers who flocked to Albany to escape the hot summers further north. In 1898 a committee was formed to raise funds in order to advertise in the papers of Perth, Kalgoorlie, Geraldton and Adelaide. Several picnic areas were created, a golf course, bowling green and other amenities were established thus marking the arrival of tourism as part of the town's economy.

The first 5 years of the twentieth century were difficult ones for Albany as her local industries declined. In addition the railway preferential fares were removed by the Government and freight costs increased. However in 1906 the fortunes of the town revived somewhat. With the outbreak of the First World War the town became an important military port for the famous ANZACS who assembled there in 1915. A series of troop ships and hospital ships also called to Albany underlying her importance to the war effort. During these war years an infants school was established in 1914, construction commenced on the High School in 1918 and the small whaling operation closed by 1920. The Trans Continental Rail line arrived to Albany in 1917 - another major event.

The 1920s saw the arrival of the Western Australian Worsted and Woollen Mills Ltd who established a mill in the town, opened in 1925 by the then Governor with the first cloth marketed a month later. Elation was soon short lived and the mill proved an non viable industry for Albany. The port's decline and the infrequent railway service led to Albany becoming isolated once again. The "Despatch" was created in 1919 and served as the town paper until becoming absorbed into the "Advertiser" in 1927.

In 1939 a population of 4,470 people resided in Albany and during World War II the port became a temporary base for American submarines. Following the Second World War Albany experienced a revival in her fortunes, albeit slowly. Port and agricultural activity increased and the advent of the motor car ended her isolation from the rest of the country. The Tydeman Report recommended improvements to the old fashioned port facilities and an upgraded transportation network. The Albany Harbour Board was proclaimed in 1950 and work set about immediately on carrying out the recommendations of the report.

During this decade over 120 ships used the port and the total trade rose from 76,417 tons to 478,775 tons by 1960. Main exports were wool, apples and frozen meat. From 1956 following the arrival of the Co Op Bulk Handling Pty Ltd wheat became an important export. The population in 1961 was 10,526 people, twice that of 1945. The Albany Tourist Bureau was established in 1955. In 1962 Albany was connected to the State Power Grid from Collie.

In 1971 a third land backed jetty was established to compete with the demand on the port facilities. The population of the town was now 12,428 persons. Agriculture continued to expand in tandem with the port facilities. The 1960s saw the tourist industry blossom into a multi million dollar industry in the town and by 1976 Albany boasted 11 motels in addition toughest houses, hotels and caravan parks.

Today Albany has been recognised as one of the most popular destinations in the State with it's engaging mix of historic, natural and cultural attractions culminating with the town being named Top Tourism Town 1994.


Museums

Albany Whaleworld situated on the approach to the town is one of the best known attractions in the area. Prior to 1978 the premises was owned and operated by Cheynes Beach Whaling Company harvesting up to 850 whales in a season during it's heyday. Today the site is the only whaling museum created from an operational whaling station. Visitors can view the restored whaling ship Cheynes IV, and a variety of other displays relating to the whaling industry.

In the town itself, the Patrick Taylor Cottage built in 1832 is most likely the oldest building still standing in Albany. Visitors can view over 2,000 historical items from period costumes and old clocks to silverware and kitchen utensils.

The old Gaol was constructed in 1851 initially serving as the Convict Hiring Depot before becoming the District Gaol in 1872. It served in this capacity until the 1930s when the building became a store house. The Albany Historical Society acquired the building in 1968 and restored it to it's present state. Visitors can wander through the Gaol, viewing a wide range of historic artefacts recounting the history of the area and examining the numerous cells and the blackhole.

The Residency Museum building dates from the early 1850s and in 1975 became the first branch of the Western Australian Museum outside of the Perth area. A range of displays describe the social and natural history of Albany and the region with a particular highlight a "See and Touch " gallery.

The first settlers to Albany arrived in 1826 on board the brig "Amity". A replica constructed by local craftsmen in 1975, from local hardwood timber and is open for visitor exploration.

The Old Post Office was planned in 1866 and opened 4 years later. Constructed from local materials with a roof of Sheoak shingles the building served as the Customs and Bond Store(ground floor), Post Office(first floor) and the Court, Magistrate's and Jury Rooms and prisoner cells(second floor). Visitors can inspect the building which today houses the Inter Colonial Communication Museum and a restaurant.

Historic Sites

There are many buildings of historical interest in the town including; Albany Town Hall built in 1888 and today housing the Albany Town Theatre and the Anglican Church of St John the Evangelist one of the first churches to be consecrated in Western Australia in 1848. The architectural style is reminiscent of the Anglo Saxon influence of the English Villages from which most of the pioneers arrived.

The Old Farm located on Strawberry Hill was originally a government farm for Albany with the original cottage dating from 1831. The present day building dates from 1836 and was built for Captain Richard Spenser, the government resident. Today the site is run by the National Trust and has some beautiful gardens for visitors to enjoy.

Australia's first federal fortress, the Princess Royal Fortress was commissioned in Albany in 1893. The Forts were fully operational up until 1956, with a small break in the 1920s. Visitors can inspect the Forts and move one of the remaining gun barrels.

At the summit of Mt Clarence stands a memorial to the Desert Mounted Corps, a recast of the statue which was erected at Suez in 1932. The granite blocks at the summit are the original ones from Suez and bullet marks can still be seen.

Jimmy Newhill's harbour was named after a fisherman who forced to take shelter from an oncoming storm came across the little harbour by chance.

Natural Attractions

Torndirrup National Park is located on the coastline south of Albany overlooking Princess Royal Harbour and is home to some of the most spectacular panoramas in the State. Highlights include The Gap, a 24 metre drop to the sea, an ideal spot to see the ferocious beauty of the sea as it crashes into the unyielding rock face and the Natural Bridge, a huge granite suspension similar in looks to a bridge. Care is advised when viewing this formation.

Mount Melville's summit has a lookout commemorating John Barnesby from which spectacular views of the area can be enjoyed. 23 metres high and comprising of three levels, two of which are soley for observation of the beautiful surrounds.

Middleton Beach and Ellen Cove have scenic picnic facilities, safe swimming areas and playground facilities to amuse the children. Dog Rock is an enormous granite formation shaped like a labrador and lies beside Middleton Beach. Oyster Harbour and Emu Point are popular swimming and sailing venues. Emu Point is particularly safe for young children due to it's secluded position.

The King and Kaglan Rivers offer opportunities for fishing, swimming and canoeing. Cruises along the Kaglan River in an air conditioned jet cruiser are a must do when in the area.

Two People's Bay Nature Reserve is home to a population of Noisy Scrub Birds. These birds were previously thought to be extinct until rediscovered in 1961.

Other Attractions

Albany Shell Museum houses a collection of shells gathered from Australian shores and from all over the world. Situated on Bay View Drive the museum is open daily for public perusal.

The House of Gems on Frenchman's Bay Road invites visitors to inspect the wide range of jewellery and gemstones on display. Open every day but Sunday.

Deer-O-Dome is a showcase for the Australian Deer Industry and invites visitors to view various displays relating to the development and processes involved in the industry. Light refreshments are available on the premises and children will delight in the animal nursery.

The Locomotion Miniature Railway offers train rides, BBQ areas and playground facilities - plenty to keep children occupied for hours.

Arts and Crafts and Galleries

The Esplanade Experience located in the Esplanade Hotel near Middleton Beach is a very unique gallery. Over 600 collectibles such as furniture, paintings, ceramics, jewellery, kites, classic cars and rare coins can be viewed within the gallery confines.

Amity Crafts on the Albany foreshore displays a variety of locally made arts and crafts for visitor perusal.

Vancouver Arts Centre was designed in the 1880s by George Poole and is used today to house exhibitions of spinning, weaving, stained glass and pottery.

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